Kosrae (Kusaie)

Kosrae State is composed of a single 42-square-mile island, Kosrae, the second largest island in the FSM. The profile of the central mountain, Mount Finkol, gives the island its nickname: Island of the Sleeping Lady.

sleeping lady

Kosrae is a lush, jungle-covered, high volcanic island ...

jungle jungle mangrove tree mangroves pandanus trees

hibiscus morning glory white orchid hibiscus flower buds

fern fiddlehead coconut palm

mushroom mushrooms mushroom

mushrooms mushrooms

dragonfly spider

frog lizard lizard

heron

... with friendly, easy-going people.

child in Menke River child in Menke  River children girls woman and children man with machete at Menke ruins

man woman traditional dancer traditional dancer

The Air Micronesia crews who fly into Kosrae know to stock up on the island's delicious green-skinned, nearly seedless, sweet tangerines.

green tangerines

Five traditional villages ring the island.

coast coast coast village village canoe on beach children in boat children in outrigger canoe

From 1400 to 1800 Kosrae was ruled by a feudal aristocracy from Insaru on Lelu Island, which is joined to the northeast side of the main island by a causeway. The prismatic stacked basalt ruins of Insaru are still impressive. Local lore has it that the buildings were constructed overnight by two magicians. Warriors from Insaru captured Nan Madol, the capital of Pohnpei, in the 17th century, overthrowing the Saudeleur dynasty.

Lelu Paul at Lelu ruins sakau (kava) rock

Diseases brought to Kosrae by whaling ships nearly wiped out the population in the 1850's. The whalers were followed by protestant missionaries from Hawaii, who converted the survivors. The people today are very religious. The whole island shuts down completely on Sunday except for church services, sung in beautiful multi-part harmony.

church

Between World War I and World War II thousands of Japanese came to Kosrae, forcing the population to abandon their villages and move inland. Part way up the slopes of Mount Finkol are the the ruins of Menke, even older than the Lelu ruins. Menke was sacred to the breadfruit goddess Sinlaku.

Menke River Menke Menke

The island is surrounded by mangroves and a fringing reef. Underwater visibility is excellent. The reef is composed mainly of hard coral. A system of mooring buoys protects it from anchor damage.

coral head reef scene coral head coral head anthias anthias coral head cabbage coral soft coral

There is a wide variety of fish.

male anthias clownfish clownfish hawkfish lizardfish damselfish jack moorish idol anthias jacks butterflies butterflies butterflies longnose butterfly whitetip shark

The hard coral heads house huge numbers of spiral gill ("Christmas tree") worms.

coral head wth worms two worms worm

Other reef creatures:

crinoid crinoid

tridacna clam

sea cucumber

banded coral shrimp

cushion star brittle star sea star

We sought out nudibranchs (Paul's favorite animals).

nudibranch nudibranch nudibranch nudibranch

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Last modified 28 October 2007